Which side do I print on?
Print on the white side of the paper.

Do I have to reverse my image before I print?
If you want your transfer to look exactly like the original, you have to reverse the image prior to printing. You can do this either in your photo-editing software or in the printer stage. After you press PRINT button you will get the Print Screen on your monitor. Look for the PROPERTIES box on your Print Screen, click on that and look for the function to mirror-image, reverse, flip or even T-Shirt transfer the image before doing the actual printing. Each printer brand has a different name for the function. For more info, refer to your printer documentation.

What printer settings do you recommend?
Use a plain paper setting and a mid-range photo quality setting.

Is there any difference between using dye-based inks and pigment-based inks (Epson Durabright & Ultrachrome?
The paper has been formulated for both dye and pigment inks.  It can also be used with Eco-Solvent inks.

How long can you wait before ironing? Can you wait up to a week? A month? 6 months?  
This product has a shelf life of over 3 yrs if stored in a poly bag and out of the elements. Store both printed and unprinted papers in the poly bag.

What do you recommend as a firm ironing surface, an ironing board, a board? 
A smooth, hard heat-resistant surface is the best. I use my ironing board, which has a thin pad.

Should the ironing surface be protected?
Any piece of fabric or thin padding such as a towel is good to use to protect the work surface and keep it clean.

How can I protect my iron?
A piece of parchment paper or regular copy paper between Transfer Artist Paper and your iron will keep any ink from getting on your iron.

How hot should my iron be?
Use the highest heat setting for best results and pre-heat your iron before transfering. When ironing to a fabric that cannot withstand high heat, use parchment paper or a teflon sheet to protect the fabric and iron for a longer period of time, checking to see when the transfer is complete. ALWAYS TEST YOUR FABRIC AND IRON SETTING FIRST! Use the highest heat possible plus the parchment paper or teflon sheet that your fabric can endure.

What's the best way to iron?
Keep the iron continuously moving over the entire surface of the transfer area. It should glide easily.

How long should I iron?
Iron until the paper begins to release itself or peels easily from the fabric. There should be no (or minimal) polymer residue left on the paper when the transfer is complete. An incomplete transfer will effect washability. Ironing time will depend on the size of your transfer, the heat of your iron and the surface you are transferring to. Small transfers (i.e. 2"x4″) can take as little as 6-10 seconds. A large transfer should take no more than 30-45 seconds. Non-porous surfaces may transfer even faster if there is a high-enough heat. Experiment with time & heat for each surface.

Is it important to hold the paper in position when ironing?
The paper may slip when the polymer melts onto a low or non-porous surface. You can tape it to your surface with a high heat resistance tape if necessary.

Why is my transfer spotty in places?
Sometimes the steam holes in your iron interfere with the transfer. Try using areas of the iron with no holes. Experiment with a craft iron to see if it is hot enough – some are not. I recommend the Dry Iron from Vermont Country Store. (802-362-8440) Item #42277

How does this paper work? The paper is coated with a polymer. The substrate you transfer to has to be somewhat porous for the polymer to gas into. Transfers can be done onto non-porous surfaces with mixed success. The paper tends to slide on less porous surfaces so use care or tape one edge in place.  Unpainted wood is more porous than painted wood. Use care in heating glass and metal surfaces. Glass may crack if thin and heated too quickly. Metal will get hot.

Why does my fabric feel stiff after the image is transferred? 
The polymer coating on the paper transfers to the fabric. As you wash it the excess polymer will wash out, though the image will not impacted.  It should render a softer hand after a small number of washes, but it does not get softer every time you wash it.  I recommend trimming white areas around the image before you transfer it to remove excess and unnecessary polymer if desired.

What can you use to draw on the paper for transferring? 
Markers (Pigma, Coptic, Marvy etc), crayons and very soft pencils (you don't want to scratch the polymer coating on the paper). Markers are more brilliant in terms of color, while crayons and pencils tend to have more of a pastel-ish appearance. Apply a bit more pressure with crayons and pencils to make the color bolder, but be careful not to tear the paper or scratch off the coating. Higher quality markers render the best results. You can also use watercolor and fluid acrylic paints on TAP.

How do I know when to remove the paper?  The paper starts to lift from porous surfaces when the transfer is complete, that is what the paper was designed to do. No more hard peeling off the fabric or guessing when it’s time to stop pressing.  Peeling may be required on non-porous surfaces. Peel back a corner to check and see if the transfer is complete before removing the entire paper.

What makes this transfer paper different and better than others?
TAP is the state-of-the-art transfer paper. Should technology improve, TAP will improve. We work continuously to bring you a better product. The inks combine with the polymer and when heated, they gas into the porous substrate and become a part of it. Other transfers sit on the surface and will peel, fade and wear away over time. On non-porous surfaces such as glass and metal there is no chemical bond so the transfers are subject to scratching.